A gloomy day in Sibiu – Saturday 1st September

After much deliberation over timetables and weather forecasts I finally decided on Sibiu in Transylvania (yes –again!) and my first trip by “Rapid” train on the 6:30, for the 5 hour trip. Yes, two distinct trends here – Transylvania and ever earlier departures! The “Rapid” as a very modern design if a little cramped even in 1st class, but definitely a cut above the “Acclerat” trains I’ve been on to date although coming with a price to match – a stonking 163RON (34 quid).
The “day”started poorly with a storm at 5am but at least that meant I wasn’t going to miss my 5:30 alarm and the Romglish was deployed once again to good effect and I was safely in my seat by 6:10. The journey up the Praihova Valley is becoming familiar now and is not unlike a trip through the South Wales valleys, river with limited flat land and steep forested mountainsides, with the occasional semi-urban settlement showing signs of industrial decline – no sheep though!
Arriving in Sibiu at 11:30 the old town is within walking distance and I made my way around the outside of the ramparts. There are three lines of rampart the last defended by towers and then the medieval town itself.

The stairs in the tower here were very steep and particularly difficult coming down although the view along the rear of the rampart of the medieval street was worth it.

Continuing around the outskirts of the town there is a marquee for some of the “European City of Culture 2007” events. I can’t quite understand why they are advertising a Jethro Tull concert though, maybe as a contrast to all the cultural events!
Heading towards the centre of town past the Orthodox Cathedral (wedding in progress as usual – and I don’t “do” weddings) I stumbled on an open doorway running under the old merchants houses with some magnificent murals.
From here it was on to the history museum with a fairly typical collection of medieval arms and armour, but also some moderately interesting Roman statues and grave stones.

Alongside this museum sits an Evangelical Cathedral built over a period of two hundred years having started in 1320. It’s not particularly attractive inside (although they do charge for entrance) there’s one spectacular crucifixion mural and a number of impressive tombs and memorials including that of Mihnea the Bad, son of Vlad the Impaler (there had to be a Dracula connection somewhere) who ruled for just three years before being killed right outside this very cathedral! Also you can climb the tower and the views are magnificent - unfortunately this is a no photography zone but probably worth the visit nevertheless although I’d suggest not bothering with the tower as you can get the same views elsewhere.

The town here centre here sports a large square similar to Brasov and today there is a massive market of very brightly decorated crockery and earthenware pots. This square is lined by brightly coloured merchants houses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries and in its Western corner by a large 18th century Catholic Church and the late 18th century Brukenthal museum.
The church is solid and unspectacular on the outside but magnificent inside and free to enter with no camera restrictions. Having made my contribution to the church restoration fund (Evangelists note 10RON voluntary for not having silly rules is a lot better than 3RON compulsory!) it’s on to the Brukenthal museum.
This museum is a mix of rooms presented much as they were when Samuel von Brukenthal was in residence and a large art collection. Brukenthal was governor of Transylvania at the end of the 18th century and the scale and splendour of this building speaks clearly for the trading success of the region.
The art collection is impressive and well organised with the obligatory collection of dull portraits broken up nicely by all the other works. There does seem to be a significant Dutch element for some reason so not a particularly “Transylvanian” collection. The museum does however include a large number of altar frescoes and statuary from around Transylvania although nothing that I found particularly attractive.
Photography is allowed here but no flash, which is entirely understandable, and the whole museum is kept in a sort of half-light making it a slightly gloomy experience.

On the opposite end of the square is the Councillors Tower which offers views over the town and allows cameras (hence no need to climb the tower at the cathedral).
So we have the view out to the station which is right of the square beyond the 15th century Ursuline church. The main square the Piata Mare, the Evangelical cathedral and the smaller Piata Mica square and the medieval rooftops of old Sibiu.

After browsing the market in the Piata Mica it’s into another very small museum in the “Butcher’s House” that is made up of primarily heavily decorated Transylvanian furniture – but no cameras allowed. I set off form here down under the Liar’s Bridge around the back of the old town looking for what the guidebook describes as the 13th century “passage of stairs”. Well there may have been stairs here since the 13th century but it’s all brand spanking new 21st century concrete steps now! At least alongside the “stairs” there’s a good view of the ramparts below the cathedral.

So back to the station feeling pretty tired and despite being a gloomy day throughout at least my umbrella wasn’t needed. The trip back went smoothly although the ticket inspector got quite agitated that I hadn’t reserved my seat but was sat in the same seat number that had been reserved in the morning. I have noticed before on my return trips that there is a little bewilderment when my return ticket gets checked – maybe I ought to check exactly what the “rules” are LOL.

After evading the dodgy taxis at Gara du Nord I’m home at 9:30 for a quick shower and then I could do with a beer. Being pretty tired I decided to sample the local “hospitality” at the White Horse – after all maybe they were just having a bad day last time I was there.
Well like most people I don’t have to be kept waiting around long and being ignored to exercise every customer’s prerogative and take my business elsewhere and the local supermarket is open all day, so I’m soon back home with a pack of Ursus to write up the blog.